How to Properly Clean All Your Home Brewing Equipment
Cleaning your equipment sounds simple enough, but properly removing dirt and grime from your equipment is critical to avoiding off-flavors and infections. From cleaners to techniques, this guide will cover how to properly clean all of your home brewing equipment in the most time-efficient manner possible.
Introduction
As an avid baker and cook, and having spent years in a chemistry lab, I'm well accustomed to cleaning dishes. So when I cleaned my brew kettle after my first batch of home brew, I was surprised to see a ring of brown residue stuck to the inside. A quick Google search revealed the type of cleaner I should be using, but it took much more digging to find the best way to use it to ensure all the residue would be removed. Further digging was needed to learn how to clean my fermenter, brew bag, hop screen, hoses, pump, and all the other equipment in my brewery. Whether you're just starting out, or you've been brewing for years, this guide will be a one-stop reference for efficiently cleaning all of your brewing equipment.
For each type of equipment, I'll discuss the "easy" and "cost-effective" methods for cleaning. The "easy" method involves less effort, but could use more cleaner, and therefore cost more. The "cost-effective" method will involve the least water, electricity, and cleaner to reduce costs as much as possible, but will almost certainly take more time or effort.
Please note that there are endless ways to clean equipment; these are my preferred methods after trying many different methods. If you have suggestions or alternative methods, please let me know in the comments, I would love to learn from you!
Cleaners
Cleaners are chemicals used to remove dirt and grime from surfaces, and they are different from sanitizers which are used to reduce bioburden, or amount of pathogens on a surface. Common household cleaners include detergents, such as those used for cleaning dishes or washing laundry, and solvents, such as those used to clean windows and floors. While these product can be used to clean brewing equipment, it is generally considered not to be good practice because they tend to leave behind residues that can impact the flavor of your beer or impede the function of sanitizers.
The gold standard in home brewing cleaner is PBW, or "powdered brewery wash", from Five Star Chemicals. PBW is sold in various sizes, is safe to use around kids and pets*, and is environmentally friendly. and consists of a combination of sodium metasilicate and sodium 1-octanesulfonate. Together, these compounds act as a strong emulsifier that targets proteins and carbohydrates, freeing them from surfaces and solvating them in water. When used correctly, PBW can remove nearly all byproducts of the brewing process from your equipment, and leave them residue-free. PBW can be found on Amazon, Northern Brewer, and MoreBeer.
This guide will exclusively reference PBW as the preferred cleaner when discussing techniques for cleaning various equipment, but you may sub in whichever cleaner you decide to use. While PBW is relatively inexpensive, because of how often you'll be cleaning equipment, the cost can add up fairly quickly. If you only brew occasionally, this will not be an issue, but if you brew frequently, consider the "cost-effective" methods for cleaning your equipment.
* PBW is a skin and eye irritant, and should not be ingested. It is relatively safe compared to harsher chemicals and solvents.
Tools needed for cleaning
In addition to the cleaner, you will need some equipment for handling and scrubbing. Because PBW is a skin irritant, I strongly recommend wearing long gloves when using it. Without gloves, it will leave your hands dry and cracked, which can be exacerbated by cold dry weather in the Winter if you live in a cold climate. This can actually be worse than it sounds. One of the first times I used it it was around Christmas time, and it left my hands so cracked that even with constant moisturizing they would randomly start bleeding throughout the day. It made it difficult to work for about a week, and was very uncomfortable. I recommend insulated gloves so that they double as kettle holders when you need to handle hot equipment. I have the ones from Norther Brewer, but others are available on Amazon.
To mix up the cleaning solution, I prefer using a 5-gallon bucket from the local hardware store and a stainless steel spoon. 5-gallon buckets are perfect because they are inexpensive, allow you to make a large batch of cleaner, and you can seal them with a lid to reuse the cleaning solution. I use a stainless steel spoon because it came with my starter kit, and it's sturdy enough to stir the solution vigorously until it's dissolved. I am going to purchase a paint mixing bit for my drill to see if that works any better, but the spoon works great in the meantime.
Depending on what the equipment you are cleaning is made of, you will either need a sponge, a soft cotton rag, or a bristle scrubber. I like to use a car washing or grout sponge for my stainless steel kettle, and soft cotton rags for just about everything else. Some glass carboys have small openings that require a wand or bristle scrubber, but I have never used, not recommend using, a glass carboy. Microfiber rags or mitts can be used in lieu of a cotton rag, but I personally prefer cotton because it doesn't leave behind microplastics. Just be sure to use a soft rag for cleaning plastic surfaces to avoid scratching.
Preparing your cleaner
Start by putting on your gloves. Safety first!
To use PBW, add 1 oz of PBW to each gallon of warm/hot water. The water should be hot to the touch but far from boiling (around 105-110F or 40-45C) for maximum efficiency. Stir it up very well so that the powder completely dissolves. It might take some time, so be patient. The result should be a totally clear (not cloudy) solution.
Tip: if you're making the cleaning solution on brew day, catch the hot water that comes out of your chiller in a 5-gallon bucket. The first 5 gallons are the perfect temperature, and it's an efficient use of water.
Rinsing the cleaner off
It is important to rinse all remaining cleaning solution off your equipment before using it. PBW rinses off relatively easily with warm or hot water. Ideally, the best way to rinse is using a commercial dish sink with a large flexible faucet, but very few people have access to one at home. I like to use a bath tub to rinse because it's easy, just be careful not to damage your tub. If you have access use a garden hose that dispenses warm water, that works too. You can also fill a 5-gallon bucket with warm water and pour it into or over the equipment you're cleaning, or use a clean (and cleaner-free) sponge to wipe it down. In any case, PBW solution feels slippery, so rinse until your gloves no longer feel slippery.
Reusing cleaning solution
Cleaning solution can be reused numerous times if stored in a sealed container. I store it in a 5-gallon bucket with a lid. Note that it will not be warm the next time, but that's ok if you let it soak about 15 minutes longer. Once it becomes really cloudy, smelly, has a slimy film on top, or has large chunks floating in it, it's time to dispose of it. To make it last longer, you can let it settle for about an hour after using it, then carefully pour it into another bucket, leaving any sediment on the bottom.
Disposing of cleaning solution
PBW is environmentally safe, so it can be poured down the drain. I usually pour it into a storm drain when it's warm out, or down the bath tub when it's cold (I live in North Dakota so it gets COLD). I don't recommend pouring it on your lawn or near plants, but I've never actually tried it so I'm not sure what effect it would have.
Cleaning your brew kettle
If you're new to brewing, you're likely brewing with extracts or a brew-in-a-bag (or -basket) (BIAB) system. In either case, the cleaning process is the same. If you're using a three vessel system, this section will apply to the boil kettle.
First time use
Note: if you are planning to use your stainless steel kettle for the first time, in addition to cleaning it, you should also consider passivating it. Passivation is the process of forcing an oxide layer to form on the stainless steel to prevent rusting. This is an optional--but recommended--step, and I will cover it in another article.
Because the manufacturing process can leave oil and small metal fragments in stainless steel equipment, it is best to fully clean it out before first use.
Easy method (preferred)
Rinse the kettle with warm water and drain.
Prepare enough cleaning solution to fill the kettle to the brim.
Place the kettle somewhere you can easily drain it without the need to move it, such as on a counter or in a tub.
Close the valve(s) and any other ports your kettle might have, and fill it so that it almost overflows. If you have other equipment to clean such as a grain basket or bag, hop screen, etc., feel free to add them to the kettle to soak.
Let it sit for 30 minutes, then drain through the bottom valve.
Using a sponge wetted with cleaner, scrub the inside of the kettle to ensure no residue remains on the surface.
Scrub the lid and any other small parts with the sponge.
Rinse everything with warm or hot water to remove the remaining cleaner. Be sure run warm water through the valve(s) and rinse out all the ports to ensure no cleaner remains within them. (Cold water is ok, but it takes longer to rinse out the PBW. I often rinse with a hose outside in the Summer.)
Towel dry with a cotton rag, then leave it to air out
Cost-effective method
Rinse the kettle with warm water and drain.
Prepare 1 gallon of cleaning solution in a 5-gallon bucket.
Wet a sponge with cleaner and scrub the inside of the kettle vigorously. I recommend scrubbing for at least 15 minutes (yes, it takes a while).
Scrub the lid and any other small parts with the sponge.
Pour the remaining cleaner into the kettle and drain through the bottom valve back into the bucket. Repeat two more times.
Rinse the kettle with warm or hot water to remove the remaining cleaner. Be sure run warm water through the valve to ensure no cleaner remains within it.
Towel dry with a cotton rag, then leave it to air out
Before brew day
Before brew day, ensure there is no debris in your kettle. Give it a quick rinse with warm water, and drain it out the valve. If the kettle was properly cleaned and stored after the previous brew, this is usually sufficient. If you notice any organic residue inside the kettle, consider the instructions under the "After brew day" section to fully clean your kettle.
I will write a more in-depth article about how to prepare for brew day, this just covers cleaning the kettle.
After brew day
After brewing, your kettle will be at its dirtiest. It might be temping, especially after a long brew day, to leave it overnight and clean it the next day. DO NOT DO THIS! While it won't mean the end of your kettle, it will make it significantly harder to remove the stuck-on hot break and other residues that will harden as they dry. It is best to immediately clean your kettle (and all your equipment) as soon as possible.
Easy method (preferred)
Rinse the kettle with warm water and drain.
Prepare enough cleaning solution to fill the kettle past the boil ring (the ring of hot break and other residue around where the top of the wort was during the boil).
Place the kettle somewhere you can easily drain it without the need to move it, such as on a counter or in a tub.
Configure the kettle as you had it during brew day: close the valve(s) and any other ports your kettle might have, and fill it so that the entire boil ring is submerged. If you have other equipment to clean such as a grain basket or bag, hop screen, etc., feel free to add them to the kettle to soak.
Let it sit for 30 minutes, then drain through the bottom valve.
Using a sponge wetted with cleaner, scrub the inside of the kettle to ensure no residue remains on the surface. You might need to scrub the outside of the kettle if any wort spilled over.
Scrub the lid and any other small parts with the sponge.
Rinse everything with warm or hot water to remove the remaining cleaner. Be sure run warm water through the valve(s) and rinse out all the ports to ensure no cleaner remains within them. (Cold water is ok, but it takes longer to rinse out the PBW. I often rinse with a hose outside in the Summer.)
Towel dry with a cotton rag, then leave it to air out.
Cost-effective method
Catch all the hot water from your chiller during the brew in 5-gallon buckets.
Add 5 oz PBW to the first bucket to prepare cleaner.
Rinse the kettle with about 2 gallons of warm water from the second bucket and drain.
Pour about half the cleaning solution into the kettle. If you have ports, you can submerge them all, or scrub them out thoroughly with a sponge.
Wet a sponge with cleaner and scrub the inside of the kettle, particularly the boil ring. Not all of the residue will be removed, the idea is to wet it with cleaner so that it can solvate it.
If you have a pump with hoses, you can recirculate the cleaner and rinse the inside walls to soak the residue more
Let soak for 30 minutes.
Wet the sponge again with cleaner and scrub the inside of the kettle vigorously to remove all residue. If anything remains stuck, repeat steps 5-7.
Drain and scrub the bottom of the kettle, along with the lid and any other small parts.
Scrub the lid and any other small parts with the sponge.
One or two gallons at a time, add clean warm water to the kettle, and use the sponge to rinse any cleaning solution off the inside of the kettle. Drain the water. Repeat as many times as needed until the kettle is free of cleaner.
Rinse the lid and any other small parts with warm water.
Towel dry with a cotton rag, then leave it to air out.
Grain bags and baskets, and hops spiders
In addition to your brew kettle, brew day will yield additional dirty equipment that should be cleaned as soon as possible. If you're using the BIAB method, you will have either a grain bag or basket, and you might have a hop spider. Because the grain bags and baskets are removed before the boil, they are considerably easier to clean than the kettle or hop spider, but there are tricks to making it easier to clean all three.
Grain bags
Grain bags are nylon mesh bags that line the kettle during the mash when using the BIAB method. After use, the bag is filled with the spent grain. Removing the majority of the grain is the easy part. I like to put the entire bag in a large plastic bag (often the one the grains come in) then dump the grains out into the plastic bag. All that will remain is what stuck to the grain bag. This is where it gets a little tricky.
Easy method
Flip the grain bag inside out so that the stuck grain is on the outside.
Run some water over the bag to remove some of the stuck grain and wort.
Put both hands in the bag, reaching all the way to the bottom, and pull the bag taught in all directions (pull the bag up your forearms and pull your arms apart).
Run more water over the bag to remove the stuck grain. Rotate the bag and repeat until nearly all the grains have been removed.
Alternative to 3 and 4: just spray it with a hose until most of the grain comes off.
Optional: I've found it unnecessary to use PBW to clean my grain bags in most cases. If you find your bag to be very discolored, toss it in the kettle with PBW while you let your kettle soak. Be sure to rinse it off after with warm water.
It's difficult to remove every last grain and hull. Let the bag dry inside out, then shake the remaining grains off.
Cost-effective method
Catch all the hot water from your chiller during the brew in 5-gallon buckets.
In one of the colder buckets, submerge the entire grain bag with the grains on the inside.
Under the water, grab the handles of the bag and flip it inside out while pulling it out of the water quickly. This should dislodge most of the grain.
Essentially, pull the handles out of the water while allowing the middle of the bag to pass through itself
Optional: I've found it unnecessary to use PBW to clean my grain bags in most cases. If you find your bag to be very discolored, toss it in the kettle with PBW while you let your kettle soak. Be sure to rinse it off after with warm water.
It's difficult to remove every last grain and hull. Let the bag dry inside out, then shake the remaining grains off.
Grain baskets
A grain basket is a wire mesh basket that often comes with all-in-one brew systems such as the Clawhammer System. Grain baskets are alternatives to grain bags but serve the same purpose. Just like with a grain bag, the basket is filled with the spent grain after use. To empty them, I place a large a large plastic bag (often the one the grains come in) over the basket, then flip the basket over to empty the grains into the bag. Some grains will stick to the basket, and I have not found a cost-effective way to remove them.
Caution: I recommend inspecting your basket for loose wire. I've been poked before, and it caused my palm to bruise and swell up for a few days. It wasn't fun.
Easy method
Using a hose or faucet or shower head, spray the outside of the basket until most of the grains have drained out.
Any grains that remain will dry and and are a little easier to remove later.
Hop spiders
A hop spider is like a grain basket for holding hops. It's a finer mesh to prevent vegetal matter from getting into the wort in order to prevent clogging pumps and off-flavors from developing in your beer. Because it is often used during the boil, a boil ring will develop on it, and it can be very difficult to clean. Note that there is almost no way to prevent staining of your hop spiders, but it's important to remove residue so that bacteria and mold don't grow on it while in storage. The cleaning methods below will correspond to the method you use for cleaning your kettle. Start by dumping the vegetal matter out. In the summer, I dump it in my garden as fertilizer. In the winter, I usually toss it into the trash or with the spent grain.
Easy method (use if following the easy method of cleaning your kettle)
Add it to the kettle when soaking with cleaning solution. Make sure the boil ring on the hop spider is completely submerged.
Let soak for 30 minutes.
Rinse with warm water to remove remaining cleaning solution.
Cost-effective method (use if following the cost-effective method of cleaning your kettle)
Before pouring your cleaning solution into your kettle, place the hop spider into the kettle upside down.
Pour the cleaning solution carefully over the hop spider to rinse down any remaining vegetal solution. Remove from the kettle and store in a 5-gallon bucket.
After the kettle has soaked for 30 minutes, collect the used cleaning solution in a 5-gallon bucket.
Place the hop spider in the bucket so that the boil ring (at least) is completely submerged.
Soak for 30 minutes.
To rinse, remove the hop spider from the cleaning solution and dip in a 5-gallon bucket of water.
I usually give it a quick rinse under a faucet to remove any remaining cleaning solution.
Chillers, pumps, and hoses
Immersion chiller
An immersion chiller is a coil of metal tubing (usually stainless steel or copper) that is submerged in the wort toward the end of the boil. Cold water is passed through the tubing to absorb and carry away heat from the wort to cool it more quickly.
Easy method (it's all easy, there are a few options here)
If you have collected any water from the chiller in 5-gallon buckets, dip the chiller into a bucket of warm water. Ensure no residue is left on the chiller.
Dip the chiller in a second bucket of clean water, or rinse it with a hose or faucet to remove all remaining wort.
To empty the chiller, just tip it upside down. If the water does not flow, shake it around or tip it on its side until it starts flowing.
Plate or counter-flow chiller, pumps, and hoses
If you have a plate chiller or counter-flow chiller, then you will have a pump and hoses. I like to clean all of these together. In leui of a step-by-step guide, this section will provide some tips that I've learned from using my Clawhammer System (pump, plate chiller, and 3 hoses):
When cleaning your kettle, connect everything up and recirculate the cleaning solution when soaking for 30 minutes. After that is fully drained, recirculate the rinse water as well to remove the cleaning solution from the pump, chiller, and hoses.
I like to dip the hoses in clean water afterward to remove any cleaning solution or solids that might have become stuck to the inside.
It can be difficult to remove everything from a plate chiller. I like to run all 4 ports under a faucet for a few seconds each, then slowly tip it back and forth the long way until most of the water has come out.
I have not used a counter-flow chiller, but conceptually they are the same as plate chillers, just easier to clean. I'd recommend rinsing out the wort tube with warm water and draining it completely.
Run the pump under a faucet both ways for just a few seconds each. This is usually sufficient. If you notice performance issues with your pump, you might have to open it to clean it out. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to do so.
Various brew day equipment
Throughout your brew day, you will likely use a series of tools and instruments. Most of them just need a quick rinse under warm water, but some require special attention.
The following can just be rinsed under warm water, towel dried, then allowed to air dry completely before being stored:
Hydrometer
Refractometer
pH meter (read the manufacturer's instructions, these often have specific storage requirements)
Thermometer
Mash paddle/spoon
Any smooth surface that comes into contact with wort
Oxygenation wand
If you used an oxygenation wand with aeration (or "diffusion" or "carbonation") stone to oxygenate your wort, it should be cleaned immediately to prevent clogging. As soon as you finish oxygenating, submerge the wand in warm water and run oxygen through it for just a few seconds. If you don't have warm water, rinse it under a faucet with the oxygen running slowly. Allow to air dry.
Fermenters
If you're new to brewing, you likely have a plastic bucket, or a plastic or glass carboy as your fermenter. Cleaning your fermenter is critical to ensuring it can be properly sanitized in order to prevent infection.
Before brew day, it's good to give your fermenter a quick rinse with warm water before sanitizing to remove any dust, debris, or hard water deposits that might have settled since its last use.
Cleaning after fermentation is a more involved process. Start by dumping the remaining trub (or washing and saving your yeast). I usually add warm water, swirl, and slowly pour it down the drain in my bathtub with the water running to prevent clogging. You might have to repeat a few times to get all the loose trub out.
Plastic bucket or carboy
Plastic fermenters are great because they're cheap, but extra care must be taken to avoid scratches where bacteria and mold could evade sanitizer and grow during your next fermentation.
Easy method
In a 5-gallon bucket (not the fermenter!) make enough cleaning solution to fill the fermenter (you might need to do this in batches). Pour into the fermenter until full.
Put the lid or cap on, and gently shake the fermenter to wet the inside of the lid or cap.
Let soak for 30 minutes.
Drain the fermenter, but save at least 1 gallon of cleaning solution in the 5-gallon bucket.
Toss the lid or cap into the 5-gallon bucket (if it fits; otherwise just leave it for now).
If the fermenter has a removable spigot, remove it, separate the spigot from the gaskets, and toss all the pieces into the 5-gallon bucket (keep the spigot in the Open position).
If you can reach your arm into the fermenter, wet a soft cotton rag and gently wipe down the inside. Be sure to wipe every square inch, and be careful not to scratch it. Repeat a few times.
If you cannot reach into the fermenter, wet a large soft cotton rag, or a few smaller ones, and drop them into the fermenter. Add a little cleaning solution, and swirl the rags around the inside so that they wipe the inside surface. This will take some time, so be patient. I don't recommend using bristle brushes on plastic!
Wipe the cap or lid and spigot gaskets with the cotton rag.
Rinse everything well with warm water to remove remaining cleaning solution.
Spray down with sanitizer, drain, and allow to air dry.
Cost-effective method
In a 5-gallon bucket, make 2 gallons of cleaning solution.
Pour 1 gallon into the fermenter. Close the cap or lit and spigot.
Shake vigorously for 3 seconds. Let it soak for 5 minutes. Repeat 5 more times (30 minutes total).
Follow steps 4-11 under the easy method above.
Glass carboy
I personally recommend avoiding glass carboys. While they are more scratch-resistant than plastic carboys, they are much riskier to use: they tend to be heavier and more slippery, and can easily shatter if dropped and cause injury. If you insist on using one, they are fairly easy to clean, but I will only recommend the "easy" method because I don't condone shaking them.
Easy method
In a 5-gallon bucket (not the fermenter!) make enough cleaning solution to fill the fermenter (you might need to do this in batches). Pour into the fermenter until full.
Put cap on, and gently shake the fermenter to wet the inside of the lid or cap.
Leave the fermenter on the ground when doing this.
Let soak for 30 minutes.
Drain the fermenter, but save at least 1 gallon of cleaning solution in the 5-gallon bucket.
If there is no spigot, leave the fermenter on the ground and tip it to drain; do not lift it.
Toss the cap into the 5-gallon bucket (if it fits; otherwise just leave it for now).
If the fermenter has a removable spigot, remove it, separate the spigot from the gaskets, and toss all the pieces into the 5-gallon bucket (keep the spigot in the Open position).
If you can reach your arm into the fermenter, wet a soft cotton rag and gently wipe down the inside. Be sure to wipe every square inch, and be careful not to scratch it. Repeat a few times.
If you cannot reach into the fermenter, use a carboy cleaning wand (long bristle brush) to scrub down the inside. Be sure to scrub every square inch. Repeat a few times.
Wipe the cap or lid and spigot gaskets with the cotton rag.
Rinse everything well with warm water to remove remaining cleaning solution.
Spray down with sanitizer, drain, and allow to air dry.
Fermenting and bottling equipment
Tilt hydrometer
If you used a Tilt hydrometer (or homemade version) just add it to the 5-gallon bucket or into the fermenter while it soaks in cleaning solution for 30 minutes. Just don't shake the fermenter with the hydrometer inside it or it could scratch the inside of the fermenter. Spray with sanitizer and allow to air dry.
Bottling bucket and bottling wand
Give the bottling bucket a few rinses with warm water to remove any trub that might have gotten in, and drain the last rinse through the bottling wand. I recommend adding a little cleaning solution, and gently wiping the bucket down using a soft cotton cloth. Drain the cleaning solution through the bottling wand. Rinse again with warm water and drain through the bottling wand a few times to remove remaining cleaning solution. Spray down with sanitizer, drain, and allow to air dry.
Kegs
When I decided to start kegging my beer, my first thought when the kegs arrived was, "how the heck do I clean and sanitize this thing?" It turns out it's actually quite easy, and the more kegs your clean at the same time, the easier it gets.
The first step to cleaning kegs is taking them apart. You will need some tools for this. If you're using ball-lock kegs, you will either need an 11/16" or 7/8" 12-point wrench. I use a socket wrench with deep sockets for this, but box wrenches work just as well.
Amazon:
Preparing the kegs for cleaning
Prepare a bucket with 1 gallon of cleaning solution.
Gently pull the ring on the relief valve to equalize the pressure.
Pull the lever on the lid to release it, and turn it 90 degrees to remove it. Remove the gasket and place the lid and gasket into the cleaning solution.
Remove both posts using a wrench. If they are hard to turn, you can hold the keg with one hand, and hit the wrench in the counter-clockwise direction with the other. If that doesn't loosen them, carefully lay the keg on its side, straddle it, and use your body weight to loosen it.
Inside each post there will be a poppet valve; sometimes these are a single piece, sometimes they are two pieces, so be careful. Remove the poppets and place them and the posts into the cleaning solution.
Under each post is a dip tube, pull the dip tube out of the keg. This might be tough if it is a used cola keg you're opening for the first time; you can use pliers to help, but be careful not to bend the lip. Remove the gaskets from the dip tubes and place the gaskets and dip tubes in the cleaning solution. Note: the standard liquid dip tube will not fit completely in the bucket; that's ok for now.
Repeat for each keg.
Cleaning the kegs
There are a few methods for cleaning kegs that I've found effective. This is my preferred approach, and you can adjust it to make it faster or more cost effective in various ways. Because only a few tweaks are needed to make these adjustments, I've written up one set of instructions and added notes within them:
Rinse out the kegs under a faucet or hose with warm water. I like to use a shower head on a hose that fits inside the keg. Make sure there is no trub left in the keg.
Prepare 5 gallons of cleaning solution in a separate 5-gallon bucket, and pour it into the keg (you might want to use a funnel).
Time saving: do this for each keg simultaneously. Follow the remaining instructions for each keg.
Cost saving: just do this for one keg, for now.
If you have a standard dip tube, place it into the keg through the main bung, not through the post hole. It should be mostly submerged.
Let everything soak for 30 minutes.
Remove the standard dip tube, place it upside down in the cleaning solution with the other pieces.
Cost saving: if you have another keg to clean pour the cleaning solution out of the first keg and into the next keg. Repeat steps 3-5. Otherwise, discard or save the cleaning solution.
Rinse the keg thoroughly with hot water. Be sure to rinse the post holes and inside the top face as well.
Rinse all the parts that were in the cleaning solution. I like to put them in a colander and rinse in the sink.
Although this is not a guide to sanitizing, I highly recommend sanitizing the keg at this point. This is a basic process for sanitizing and putting the keg back together. There are better ways, but this will do just fine:
Pour about 1 gallon of sanitizer into the keg. Swirl for 60 seconds so that it makes contact with all surfaces. Pour the sanitizer out for reuse.
Soak all the parts in sanitizer for 60 seconds.
Spray sanitizer through each post hole. Replace the gaskets on each dip tube and insert the dip tubes into the respective post holes; the long tube goes in the "out" post, the small in the "in" post.
Insert the poppets into the posts and screw them onto their respective posts; the gas or "in" post is the one with the indentations. Tighten with wrench.
Replace the large gasket on the lid and lock the lid into the main opening of the keg.
Flush with CO2 to remove oxygen and pressurize to 10 PSI.
Beverage lines
Beverage lines are often overlooked when it comes to cleaning, but failing to do so can result in bacteria and mold ending up in your glass. It's a relatively easy process, and I recommend doing it every time you switch out your keg. You'll need an empty keg or a beverage line cleaning kit, but I find the empty keg to work just fine. If you are cleaning multiple lines, just use more cleaning solution, water, and sanitizer, and distribute among each line:
Fill an empty keg with 1 gallon of cleaning solution.
Attach the gas line and the beverage line you want to clean.
Run the cleaning solution through the beverage line, but stop before you run out so that your beverage line remains filled with cleaning solution.
Let sit for 30 minutes.
In the meantime, rinse out the keg and fill with about 1 gallon of warm water.
After 30 minutes, run all the warm water through the beverage line.
Fill the keg with about 1 gallon of sanitizer. Shake vigorously for 60 seconds.
Alternatively, fill entirely with sanitizer so that there is no air left to ensure there is no oxygen left in the keg at the end.
Run the sanitizer through the beverage line, but stop before you run out so that your beverage line remains filled with sanitizer.
Flush your keg with CO2 and pressurize to 10 PSI.
If you filled the entire keg with sanitizer, just pressurize the keg to about 2 PSI, drain all the sanitizer, then pressurize to 10 PSI instead of flushing.
Conclusion
While this is not an exhaustive list of every piece of brewing equipment you could possibly use, it should cover everything a new or expanding brewer will likely encounter. If you've read through the entire article, first, thank you so much, it took quite some time to put together; and second, you probably noticed some patterns that you can apply to cleaning all sorts of equipment. The key is to expose all surfaces to the cleaning solution for about 30 minutes and rinse away.
If you would like me to add more equipment, or you would like to contribute a new method, or if I've made any mistakes, please let me know in the comments. There are many ways to clean each piece of equipment, so let's keep the conversation open so we can learn from each other. Thank you!